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Old 06-03-2006, 11:50 PM   #16
r6tony
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i replaced the oil pan on my f2 (that's what i get for letting a dealer do my first service, i'm so glad they decided it no longer needed a crush washer, @#%!'ers!!!). i was like $100 for the whole deal.

in all fairness, i JB Welded the thing together for two months. it just makes oil changes tough.

if you heli-coil or jb weld it, you should really drain the oil and clean everything up first. buy a new pan gasket and crush washer too.
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:10 AM   #17
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I say as the others, install a helicoil, best solution.
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do it right
Old 06-04-2006, 02:13 PM   #18
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Exclamation do it right

play it safe and get the new pan, gasket, crush washer and plug. shouldn't cost that much and at least you'll know it was done right and not half assed. nothing worse then carving up a twisty road with the possibility of loosing oil on the rear wheel.



ps. unless you want to take the chance of making the next entry to "WHEN ASPHLAT COWBOYS GO DOWN LIKE CHEAP WHORES"



be safe
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Old 06-04-2006, 02:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxon
play it safe and get the new pan, gasket, crush washer and plug. shouldn't cost that much and at least you'll know it was done right and not half assed. nothing worse then carving up a twisty road with the possibility of loosing oil on the rear wheel.

ps. unless you want to take the chance of making the next entry to "WHEN ASPHLAT COWBOYS GO DOWN LIKE CHEAP WHORES"

be safe
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Old 06-04-2006, 02:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRBob
If you are removing the pan, get a gasket and a new pan and drain plug with a washer, just do it, it's not that $$ and it will be 100%

....while I am not all too tech savvy, why not just take care of the problem altogether rather than patching and or getting a bypass in place.....that way your good to go and not have to visit this issue later on....of course if $$ is of concern then yeah take the appropriate steps to save you the dough...

But being that your hitting up the track, ,in the interest of safety just get it taken care of.

Soda; I am amazed on how that bike of yours keeps going.......if you were to post a pick would it be 80% duck tape and zities?
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Old 06-04-2006, 06:03 PM   #21
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Got a temp fix for now. Will order everything i need on Monday or tuesday. Thanks all.
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Old 06-04-2006, 06:06 PM   #22
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yeeeaaaa boi!!!!!!
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Old 06-04-2006, 07:29 PM   #23
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Cool deal man, what happened in the first place?
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:04 PM   #24
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good shit....will you be doing the work yourself?
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:12 PM   #25
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Dont know what happened. I did put a washer there but it still leaked. Used some oil resistant teflon tape around the threads along with the washer. Took it out for a spin, made sure the oil got nice and hot and so far so good. But i still dont trust it.

Bobby - Yes i will do the work myself. Do it next weekend, tell the fam to leave me along. I know it will take me all day, but i can do it.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase

Bobby - Yes i will do the work myself. Do it next weekend, tell the fam to leave me along. I know it will take me all day, but i can do it.

Cool that will save you a pretty penny in doing so....do you have a service manual? If not get one from Soda. Hope all goes well...
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:07 PM   #27
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I would replace the pan.

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Old 06-04-2006, 10:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimRBlue
I would replace the pan.

welcome to 2 weeks ago....lol
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but instead i"m sitting in an airport internet chatting with a two bald men, one former gangbanger who drives a volvo and the other who thinks he's monk
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2007 Blue GSXR 600 - Sold
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Old 06-05-2006, 07:16 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase
welcome to 2 weeks ago....lol
Oh snap, tell 'em Timbos
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:29 AM   #30
ffejtable
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If I can replace my oil pan, anybody can... It took maybe 2 hours because I had to remove the header pipes.

There should be some small O-rings where the oil lines connect (inside the pan).. The new pan probably wont come with these so make sure you move those over to the new pan...
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