Go Back   Sportbike Addicts | Two Wheels... Our Drug of Choice > The Garage - Tech Talk > Mods & How To's
FAQ Members List Member Gallery Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Donate
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes

Old 10-31-2007, 07:57 PM   #31
07gixxer750
Learner's Permit
 
07gixxer750's Avatar
 
07gixxer750 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
Default

what about doing the mod on a bike newer than 05 that has a sensor hooked up 2 the pair valve? any sugestions? I tore my 07 750 apart and then realized that all the write ups are for bikes 05 and older. any help would greatly be appreciated.
  Reply With Quote

Old 10-31-2007, 09:00 PM   #32
High_Revs_17
ron.google.com
 
High_Revs_17's Avatar
 
High_Revs_17 is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3,971
Default

Providing the sensor's mounted in a similar location with the modified hosing I don't see why there should be any sensor trigger issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07gixxer750 View Post
what about doing the mod on a bike newer than 05 that has a sensor hooked up 2 the pair valve? any sugestions? I tore my 07 750 apart and then realized that all the write ups are for bikes 05 and older. any help would greatly be appreciated.
__________________

'92 Honda CB747-Cafe'
  Reply With Quote

Old 10-31-2007, 09:57 PM   #33
CBRBob
A 37 Production
 
CBRBob's Avatar
 
CBRBob is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,347
Default

Is it a sensor or is it a solenoid? On the Honda's, there is a solenoid valve that opens the air passage. On them you unplug it, remove the system and cap the airbox and 2 ports on the valve cover with rubber caps. I would assume the suzi would be the same.
__________________
CBR Bob
TPM Certified Coach#29
TeamPromotion
Rider Ed. of N.J. Inc. Senior RiderCoach and Site Coordinator @CCM & RVCC
RiderEd of NJ Inc.

Cakes206:fuck the devils
  Reply With Quote

pair valve mod on k7 750.
Old 11-05-2007, 09:38 PM   #34
07gixxer750
Learner's Permit
 
07gixxer750's Avatar
 
07gixxer750 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
Default pair valve mod on k7 750.

So i had 2 find my own way 2 get it 2 work, so to speak. i used the same hoses from the pair valve, and put a 1/2" connector between the 2. As for the hose from the crank case to the air box, i eliminated the hose completely and put a breather on the crank case, and capped the hole in the air box. any questions pm me or email me at 07gixxer750@gmail.com
__________________
k7 750, pcIIIusb,bmc filter,R1 throttle mod, set valve removed,HID headlight conversion,gp shifting, rk quik accel kit ordered.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-05-2007, 09:57 PM   #35
High_Revs_17
ron.google.com
 
High_Revs_17's Avatar
 
High_Revs_17 is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3,971
Default

Good move, can never go wrong with a crank case breather, they just need to be cleaned a few times a season, installed one on my bike and it worked great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07gixxer750 View Post
So i had 2 find my own way 2 get it 2 work, so to speak. i used the same hoses from the pair valve, and put a 1/2" connector between the 2. As for the hose from the crank case to the air box, i eliminated the hose completely and put a breather on the crank case, and capped the hole in the air box. any questions pm me or email me at 07gixxer750@gmail.com
__________________

'92 Honda CB747-Cafe'
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 09:51 AM   #36
CBRBob
A 37 Production
 
CBRBob's Avatar
 
CBRBob is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,347
Default

Put the hose from the crankcase vent to the airbox back on. You want negative pressure in the engine as much as possible. You read about how 'improved crankcase design drops pumping losses'. All that means is they found a better way for the air to move from the underside of one piston to the other easier. If you make a vacuum in the crancase, there is less air for the bottom of the piston to push against, hence, less power lost, and no oil drool on the outside of the engine.

One trick you will find in dragracing is that they have several vacuum pumps on the crankcase to gain power. Keeping the hose to the airbox helps, there is nothing to be gained by removing it.

Leave the pair on a stock muffled bike. There is no performance gain by removing the pair. The only benefit is if you put an aftermarket exhaust on you will hear the popping on closed throttle decel, disabling it takes away the popping. Also if you have the bike dyno-tuned, it needs to be disabled.
__________________
CBR Bob
TPM Certified Coach#29
TeamPromotion
Rider Ed. of N.J. Inc. Senior RiderCoach and Site Coordinator @CCM & RVCC
RiderEd of NJ Inc.

Cakes206:fuck the devils
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 10:26 AM   #37
Cakes206
The Solution
 
Cakes206's Avatar
 
Cakes206 is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Joisey
Posts: 8,105
Send a message via AIM to Cakes206
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRBob View Post
Keeping the hose to the airbox helps, there is nothing to be gained by removing it.
Leaving it can cause oil mist to mix in with the air/fuel mixture...it's pretty much only routed that way for emissions.
__________________


Character is who you are when no one is looking.

The more you sweat in practice, the less you bleed in battle.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 02:19 PM   #38
CBRBob
A 37 Production
 
CBRBob's Avatar
 
CBRBob is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,347
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRBob View Post
Put the hose from the crankcase vent to the airbox back on. You want negative pressure in the engine as much as possible. You read about how 'improved crankcase design drops pumping losses'. All that means is they found a better way for the air to move from the underside of one piston to the other easier. If you make a vacuum in the crancase, there is less air for the bottom of the piston to push against, hence, less power lost, and no oil drool on the outside of the engine.

One trick you will find in dragracing is that they have several vacuum pumps on the crankcase to gain power. Keeping the hose to the airbox helps, there is nothing to be gained by removing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakes982 View Post
Leaving it can cause oil mist to mix in with the air/fuel mixture...it's pretty much only routed that way for emissions.

Guess you didn't read that post....
__________________
CBR Bob
TPM Certified Coach#29
TeamPromotion
Rider Ed. of N.J. Inc. Senior RiderCoach and Site Coordinator @CCM & RVCC
RiderEd of NJ Inc.

Cakes206:fuck the devils
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 02:40 PM   #39
Cakes206
The Solution
 
Cakes206's Avatar
 
Cakes206 is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Joisey
Posts: 8,105
Send a message via AIM to Cakes206
Default

Yea I saw...but having the CC vented back into the air box as stock is probably very minimal negative pressure, from what I understand, the actual reason behind venting the cc thru the air box is to recycle the oil misted air/fumes back into the system rather than out in the air. On my 01 gix and the sv I had the CC vented through the exhaust. That created some nice negative pressure to the point when you shut down and open the oil fill, you can hear the air rush back in, not legal in racing but oh well, lol.
__________________


Character is who you are when no one is looking.

The more you sweat in practice, the less you bleed in battle.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 02:44 PM   #40
SPL170db
Throttle Lock
 
SPL170db's Avatar
 
SPL170db is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: north Jersey
Posts: 1,036
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakes982 View Post
Leaving it can cause oil mist to mix in with the air/fuel mixture...it's pretty much only routed that way for emissions.




You can run a filter midway up the hose to stop some of it. Yoshimura also sells a catch tank that needs to be emptied from time to time.



For the typical rider you'll never notice the 1/2 HP difference doing the PAIR mod accomplishes. I did the PAIR blockoff just so I could get my bike properly dyno-tuned, but I didn't bother doing the rest of the routing for the PAIR "mod".
__________________
2005 GSX-1000 (Mladin replica)
2006 GSX-600 (Jordan replica)

CCS AM 478

"Before I do anything I ask myself “Would an idiot do that?” And if the answer is yes, I do not do that thing."

-- Dwight Schrute
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 02:52 PM   #41
Cakes206
The Solution
 
Cakes206's Avatar
 
Cakes206 is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Joisey
Posts: 8,105
Send a message via AIM to Cakes206
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPL170db View Post
For the typical rider you'll never notice the 1/2 HP difference doing the PAIR mod accomplishes.
I noticed it right away, can definitely notice the engine getting to the higher revs quicker.
__________________


Character is who you are when no one is looking.

The more you sweat in practice, the less you bleed in battle.
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 02:56 PM   #42
SPL170db
Throttle Lock
 
SPL170db's Avatar
 
SPL170db is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: north Jersey
Posts: 1,036
Default

You must be an A-typical rider Cakes


I dunno, maybe is more prominent on certain bikes compared to others, did it on an older model gsxr1K and didn't notice much.
__________________
2005 GSX-1000 (Mladin replica)
2006 GSX-600 (Jordan replica)

CCS AM 478

"Before I do anything I ask myself “Would an idiot do that?” And if the answer is yes, I do not do that thing."

-- Dwight Schrute
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 05:28 PM   #43
CBRBob
A 37 Production
 
CBRBob's Avatar
 
CBRBob is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,347
Default

....and the bad thing about burning the mist of oil is? What do you think you lose, 1 ounce every oil change out of the 3-4 quarts?

People buying all these 'race-parts' and doing these mods tend to believe they feel a difference when there really is nothing to be had except for a lighter wallet and a lot less hours in their life.

If you NEED to do the PAIR mod (popping in aftermarket exhaust or getting dyno tuned), then fine. If not, don't bother.
__________________
CBR Bob
TPM Certified Coach#29
TeamPromotion
Rider Ed. of N.J. Inc. Senior RiderCoach and Site Coordinator @CCM & RVCC
RiderEd of NJ Inc.

Cakes206:fuck the devils
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-06-2007, 10:33 PM   #44
Jimmy
"We got a runner!"
 
Jimmy's Avatar
 
Jimmy is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to Jimmy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRBob View Post
If you NEED to do the PAIR mod (popping in aftermarket exhaust or getting dyno tuned), then fine. If not, don't bother.
What's the importance of doing the PAIR mod if you're dyno tuning?
  Reply With Quote

Old 11-07-2007, 12:21 AM   #45
CBRBob
A 37 Production
 
CBRBob's Avatar
 
CBRBob is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,347
Default

The PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust to help burn any unburned fuel in the hot exhaust with a oxygen rich mix. When tuning on the dyno, most tuners use air/fuel (O2) sensors either in a port in the exhaust pipe or a 'sniffer' probe inserted into the muffler. With the extra air being injected, it biases the exhaust gas into looking 'lean', when the reality is it could be rich. By disabling the pair system, you would get a truer reading and be able to tune more accurately.
__________________
CBR Bob
TPM Certified Coach#29
TeamPromotion
Rider Ed. of N.J. Inc. Senior RiderCoach and Site Coordinator @CCM & RVCC
RiderEd of NJ Inc.

Cakes206:fuck the devils
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:46 AM.
 

vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.