2009 R1 AIS Block Off Plates

[MrQuickR1]

Not sure if this will be of any use here, I put this up a while ago on R1 Forums and it has helped many people out doing this same mod.
I copied and pasted what I have there so if it sucks, than sorry, I was always in a hurry this past summer.........

I am not as good as most of you with the detailed how to's but I figured I would give some insight to the 09 as I just finished it.
The lower air box case is the more involved out of the entire operation, once that is off, should only take about 15/20 minutes to finish and assemble it all back together.

1) Take of the rider seat
2) Unscrew the side panel on gas tank, then slide it forward off
3) Remove the screws on side of tank and the one on top
4) Remove OR pull tank back and secure it up as I did.


5) Disconnect wire at plug from air box
6) Disconnect fuel line on air box (pull up on orange clip and push 2 side buttons in and pull easy)....have a rag there for some fuel leakage/drippings


7) Remove all screws (phillips) from top of air box, take the top off
8) push off white clip as shown, these come off easy, just don't force anything.


9) Push the 4 tabs and center snap button to separate the lower air filter case duct, unscrew (5mm) the 6 allen screws, do not remove, from the intake funnel joint. 2 of those are hard to see until you remove or pull up on the intake funnel servo motor rod assembly (on top of TB's) To remove, push out where it is snapped in place off of rods, easy to do just be easy and don't over force anything.



10) Remove Lower air box case, disconnecting the 2 hoses.
11) Unplug blue wire connector on air duct and wiggle the duct free one side at a time until it comes out, these connect to the ram air tubes.


12) Once the duct is out you will immediately see the AIS



13) Remove the 4 (5mm allen) screws, unplug wire connector


14) Remove hose by pushing through side of bike til it's out



15) Take your plates and use blue locktite, I had to use red since its all I had on hand. and snug each side down, then tighten it down...I recommend using this type of wrench.



16) DO not forget to cap off the hole at the air box where the hose from the AIS went to


Putting it all back together is a breeze, go in reverse order, triple check all wire connections, fuel lines, clearance, all screws and bolts accounted for.....


I was a bit intimidated when I first opened the top part of the air box....Now that I did it, I will know exactly what to do next time it has to come off.

Hope this helps I hope it's detailed enough.

Billy

[IrocRob]

Nicely done Bill - I like working on new bikes. Everything is nice and clean.

[Cakes206]

Nice write up Billy. Thanks for taking the time to post up.

[RCM78]

I would recommend you add one simple step to this procedure.

After the top of the airbox is removed, Place clean shop rags into each throttle body to prevent anything from falling in them...

[JimRBlue]

Great write up bill.. Nothing like photos to help you along.. Well done!

[CBRBob]

You don't really need the plates. You can simply put the rubber caps on the ports like on the airbox. Same difference, less cost.

[MrQuickR1]

Originally Posted by CBRBob

You don't really need the plates. You can simply put the rubber caps on the ports like on the airbox. Same difference, less cost.

Yes you're right, that's what some people do. I prefer the clean look and the $35 for the Graves plates.
Another reason too is just to free up space for when it's time to replace the plugs, believe it or not, it leaves you some room to work.

[JasonB]

Nice write up Billy...now when are you going to get your ass to the track?? lol

[breeze]

Originally Posted by RCM78

I would recommend you add one simple step to this procedure.

After the top of the airbox is removed, Place clean shop rags into each throttle body to prevent anything from falling in them...

great point!!!

[MrQuickR1]

Originally Posted by breeze

great point!!!

It's purely common sense. As you can all see as well I did not show you how to lift the tank in detail, or things such as that....it's the basic knowledge that if one doesn't have, then one should not attempt digging into their motor

[RCM78]

Originally Posted by MrQuickR1

It's purely common sense. As you can all see as well I did not show you how to lift the tank in detail, or things such as that....it's the basic knowledge that if one doesn't have, then one should not attempt digging into their motor

One thing I've learned in my brief career as a technical trainer is, if you assume something is common sense, someone will say "You never said or showed us that". It was just a suggestion.

[sonny]

and this does what?

[MrQuickR1]

Originally Posted by sonny

and this does what?

For those that do not know about them.....
This comes straight from Graves Garage:

Originally Posted by Graves 09

Graves Garage-Why use Smog Block off Plates? What do they do?

This seems to be a popular set of questions over here at Graves Motorsports. Most people say to me.....
they dont make any horsepower so why should I spend the $35 and take the time to install them?.

Here is some info on the benefits of using the smog block off plates on just about every model motorcycle.
*This is for off road racing applications and not meant to be used on the street.

If you have something to add please feel free.
From the factory most motorcycles will come with a pair valve system on them. This is basically an air pump that pulls fresh air from your air box, sends it through a bunch of hoses, and then pumps that fresh air into your exhaust ports on your cylinder head.
There is unburned fuel that makes it through the combustion stroke, exits the cylinder head, and makes its way down the exhaust system to finally exit into the atmosphere. The pair valve system adds fresh Oxygen to the exhaust so that as the unburned fuel comes into contact with the extremely hot catalytic converter, the additional fresh air will aerate the fuel for a more efficient burn and keep the exhaust cooler. This equals less emissions being released into the atmosphere and lower emission readings when tested. Here are some of the main reasons you should consider installing the smog block off kit on your motorcycle.

(1) The pair valve system really requires a catalytic converter to complete its job of burning off excess fuel. Once you have installed a full race system and have removed the cat, all this fresh air will do is mix with the unburned fuel vapors and beginning to burn up while exiting the exhaust. This create the popping and back firing that throws those incredibly cool but damaging flames out of your exhaust. Great for night riding, but terrible for tail sections and leg hairs. To eliminate this add the smog block off plates.

(2) If you decide to have your bike dyno tuned then you cannot run the pair valve system because as it adds oxygen to the exhaust gases. This causes dyno sniffer (reads the air/fuel mixture exiting the motor) to pick up false A/F readings due to the additional Oxygen that is added after combustion. When it reads the extra O2 it thinks the bike is running lean and will compensate by adding fuel to the fuel map. Now you have a map that is much fat (too much fuel) and the bike will run terrible. The person that is tuning the bike will have to pinch these off every time you dyno the bike. To eliminate this add the smog block off plates.

(3) The tubes, pump, and wires that are included in the pair valve smog system add unnecessary clutter and weight to the motorcycle. To eliminate this add the smog block off plates.

(4) This is the last reason I have found to run the plates but it is NOT A FACT. It seems, not everyone have noticed this and nobody has proven it right or wrong so do not take this as absolute. It could very well be just by brain acting up.
I believe I felt it help my engine breaking a little. Before I installed them I felt like the bike (08 R6) had a really strong engine breaking and would pop and back fire a lot on decceleration. When I installed the plates I would swear that the engine breaking became more suitable. It was not as abrupt and not nearly as strong. Again this was only a guess and has no proof to it, however I did talk amongst a few tech savvy buddies and we worked out a somewhat scientific theory. Possibly as the hot engine gases are pouring smoothly out of the cylinder head like melted butter this cold fresh oxygen is forced into the exhaust ports. This could very well slow those gases down and create more back pressure which in theory could possibly cause stronger engine breaking. So?..maybe Im not crazy.


Taige Webster
Graves Motorsports
http://www.gravesport.com

Those that do know and are just being facetious