what about doing the mod on a bike newer than 05 that has a sensor hooked up 2 the pair valve? any sugestions? I tore my 07 750 apart and then realized that all the write ups are for bikes 05 and older. any help would greatly be appreciated.

Providing the sensor's mounted in a similar location with the modified hosing I don't see why there should be any sensor trigger issues.

Is it a sensor or is it a solenoid? On the Honda's, there is a solenoid valve that opens the air passage. On them you unplug it, remove the system and cap the airbox and 2 ports on the valve cover with rubber caps. I would assume the suzi would be the same.

pair valve mod on k7 750.
 

So i had 2 find my own way 2 get it 2 work, so to speak. i used the same hoses from the pair valve, and put a 1/2" connector between the 2. As for the hose from the crank case to the air box, i eliminated the hose completely and put a breather on the crank case, and capped the hole in the air box. any questions pm me or email me at 07gixxer750@gmail.com

Good move, can never go wrong with a crank case breather, they just need to be cleaned a few times a season, installed one on my bike and it worked great.

Put the hose from the crankcase vent to the airbox back on. You want negative pressure in the engine as much as possible. You read about how 'improved crankcase design drops pumping losses'. All that means is they found a better way for the air to move from the underside of one piston to the other easier. If you make a vacuum in the crancase, there is less air for the bottom of the piston to push against, hence, less power lost, and no oil drool on the outside of the engine.

One trick you will find in dragracing is that they have several vacuum pumps on the crankcase to gain power. Keeping the hose to the airbox helps, there is nothing to be gained by removing it.

Leave the pair on a stock muffled bike. There is no performance gain by removing the pair. The only benefit is if you put an aftermarket exhaust on you will hear the popping on closed throttle decel, disabling it takes away the popping. Also if you have the bike dyno-tuned, it needs to be disabled.

Leaving it can cause oil mist to mix in with the air/fuel mixture...it's pretty much only routed that way for emissions.

Guess you didn't read that post.... :moocow: :doh:

Yea I saw...but having the CC vented back into the air box as stock is probably very minimal negative pressure, from what I understand, the actual reason behind venting the cc thru the air box is to recycle the oil misted air/fumes back into the system rather than out in the air. On my 01 gix and the sv I had the CC vented through the exhaust. That created some nice negative pressure to the point when you shut down and open the oil fill, you can hear the air rush back in, not legal in racing but oh well, lol.

+1

You can run a filter midway up the hose to stop some of it. Yoshimura also sells a catch tank that needs to be emptied from time to time.

http://yoshimura-shop.netmove.co.jp/...-505-0000l.jpg

For the typical rider you'll never notice the 1/2 HP difference doing the PAIR mod accomplishes. I did the PAIR blockoff just so I could get my bike properly dyno-tuned, but I didn't bother doing the rest of the routing for the PAIR "mod".

I noticed it right away, can definitely notice the engine getting to the higher revs quicker.

You must be an A-typical rider Cakes :D


I dunno, maybe is more prominent on certain bikes compared to others, did it on an older model gsxr1K and didn't notice much.

....and the bad thing about burning the mist of oil is? What do you think you lose, 1 ounce every oil change out of the 3-4 quarts?

People buying all these 'race-parts' and doing these mods tend to believe they feel a difference when there really is nothing to be had except for a lighter wallet and a lot less hours in their life.

If you NEED to do the PAIR mod (popping in aftermarket exhaust or getting dyno tuned), then fine. If not, don't bother.

What's the importance of doing the PAIR mod if you're dyno tuning?

The PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust to help burn any unburned fuel in the hot exhaust with a oxygen rich mix. When tuning on the dyno, most tuners use air/fuel (O2) sensors either in a port in the exhaust pipe or a 'sniffer' probe inserted into the muffler. With the extra air being injected, it biases the exhaust gas into looking 'lean', when the reality is it could be rich. By disabling the pair system, you would get a truer reading and be able to tune more accurately.