03 CBR 600RR Clutch
 

I think I need a new clutch. Anyone knows how much I should expect to spend. Should I have the dealership (Hanover Honda) do it? Anyone know of a good motorcycle shop or have any hook ups?
Thanks.

If you have some decent tools and a torque wrench and you have an idea of what you are doing, buy the service manual and do it yourself. Parts come out in an order, put the new ones back the same way.

Why? Whats happening?

I have the service manual, nice set of torque wrenchs and a pretty good sense of mechanics, but Im too chicken to try it myself...

When Im riding and holding the throttle at a constant position, the engine will surge, rpms jump up and then drop down again over and over. It happens in all gears and from what I can feel all rpms. If I hold the rpms with the bike in neutral the engine is smooth. The bike still pulls strong and I can launch from a stop pretty hard... The engine idles smoothly. So Im guessing its the clutch.?

Hmm...I've heard clutches don't usually burn out on bikes, maybe I heard wrong info. and/or some bikes are less likely to burn out? I'd research online and see what others say for postups. If you need a shop and/or don't want to chance doing yourself go to WCW and have Ron hook you up; very knowledge/reliable and personal referral from SBA he may cut ya a break. He's on Rt.31 in Washington, not too far North of Rt.78 Intersection.

Thats common on 600's...samething used to happen to my gix6...has to do with the gearing and power delivery at certain rpms during whatever gear. If I actually tried to do the speed limit on a side street, 25mph in 2nd or 3rd at a low rpm, the bike would "buck"...basically trying to say, "C'mon already, feed me some fuel!" When I changed the gearing to -1 front sprocket it greatly reduced that "bucking" affect. Sound like the same?

Okay, so why would my first 26k miles be "buck" free and now I have buck?

Hmm, don't know. But usually when a clutch starts to wear you'll get more of a slippage when on the throttle hard, might be harder to get into gear, frequent false neutrals...usually not under steady throttle, could be wrong though. Maybe check the thickness of the fibers and steels using a dial caliper(think thats what its called.)

26K on an original clutch (if that's the case) could be the issue, it might be time to replace it. Bike clutches aren't like cars where you can put 100K on them, they wear out much quicker.

Also when's the last time the bike had a tune-up, Spark Plugs (replace), Fuel filter(s) (clean or replace), Air Filter (clean or replace)?

A clutch replacement at a shop will cost you at least a few hundred bucks, if you're looking for a reputable shop and within a reasonable distance give these guys a call and be sure to tell them you're a member of this site if/when you contact them.

www.washingtoncycleworks.com

106,000 Miles on my 1990 Suzuki Katana, still has the original Clutch:nod2: but usually they don't last that long

:moocow: Back then clutch plates were made outta solid steel, hence the longevity. :lol:

the good old days:lol:

Its been a while. I just looked up the service limit on the plugs along and Im about 10k miles over. Ill replace them and the air filter element first.

I also took another look at the service manual for the clutch, if I dont remove the outer clutch basket and inner clutch, its not too daunting. Both can be inspected while on the bike, the only thing I can not inspect would be the various bearings. So I might try it since a rebuild kit (plates/disks/springs) cost around a 100 bux.

If you are getting slippage, then the clutch is the problem. If your clutch is cable activated, check to see if you have enough freeplay in the cable. If the clutch cable is adjusted too tight, that will make your clutch slip. Your freeplay should be covered in your service manual. Approx. 1/8 to 3/16 freeplay usually.