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JasonB
05-31-2006, 10:25 AM
Hey all...i need some help on how to repair a stripped oil pan. The drain plug is leaking. How can i fix this with out replacing the oil pan?

Be as detailed as possible..

soda7o
05-31-2006, 10:29 AM
do what i do.. i have the saem problem.. .i just put silicone around it.. doesnt leake anymore and when its time for an oil change i just remove th esilicone..

Mack
05-31-2006, 10:33 AM
Just get a self threading larger diameter bolt and put it in...that's what I would do.

High_Revs_17
05-31-2006, 10:36 AM
Take note of the bolt size and pick up a Heli Coil that's one size larger. Drain the pan and thread the Coil into the stripped threads so it can cut new ones. Then pick up a new bolt to match the new threads along with a new crush washer. It's either that or get a new pan.

I hope you didn't hit up VIR with the bike like that.

duc748pilot
05-31-2006, 10:37 AM
oil pans suck. you shouldnt really thread and tap for a larger bolt, the pan normally isnt thick enough. Helicoil or you can TRY silicone although I dont reccomend it one bit. or replace the pan. use a torque wrench next time ; )

High_Revs_17
05-31-2006, 10:43 AM
i just put silicone around it.. doesnt leake anymore and when its time for an oil change i just remove th esilicone..

Silcone and JB Weld can't fix everything, if that bolt's stripped you're walking a thin line between safety and danger. If it comes loose and drops down it'll drain the pan all over your rear tire while causing a blown motor and possibly a bad wreck for you and whoever's behind you.

JasonB
05-31-2006, 10:48 AM
oil pans suck. you shouldnt really thread and tap for a larger bolt, the pan normally isnt thick enough. Helicoil or you can TRY silicone although I dont reccomend it one bit. or replace the pan. use a torque wrench next time ; )
So you are saying that i should replace the oil pan??

duc748pilot
05-31-2006, 10:55 AM
you should try the helicoil first. check your pm's

soda7o
05-31-2006, 10:59 AM
Silcone and JB Weld can't fix everything, if that bolt's stripped you're walking a thin line between safety and danger. If it comes loose and drops down it'll drain the pan all over your rear tire while causing a blown motor and possibly a bad wreck for you and whoever's behind you.



dont ride be hind me... :)
jbweld and zipties along with some silicone hold my bike together.. :)
my is not relaly leaking tho ok ok maybe just a tiny tine bit but i think its the washer. so i was to alzy to drain the oil an dge t anew washer so i siliconed it..
BTW its time for my anual oil change.. what oil do i need... HMMM? i have no fucking cluew

ffejtable
05-31-2006, 01:02 PM
I had a leaking oil drain plug on my 96 and I replaced the whole pan only to find out it was the actual bolt. Unusual because the pan I believe is aluminum (softer) than the steel plug, but replacing the pan ($100+) didnt do the trick. I tried the "right" size plug from Pep boys/Strauss and that didnt work either. It wasnt until I used the correct Kawi part until the problem went away. I spent $150+ and it wound up being a $6 repair. :(

Might not be the same for you, but something to consider.

I certainly wouldnt use silicone, but if you do make sure its the high temp stuff.

Make sure you replace the crush washer as well as the bolt.

Cakes206
05-31-2006, 01:05 PM
i need some help on how to repair a stripped oil pan. The drain plug is leaking.

The pan might not be stripped, could be a crush washer problem. Unless of course you knowingly stripped it.

JasonB
06-03-2006, 07:29 PM
When doing the helicoil, do I have to remove the oil pan completely?

Cakes - Yeah it's stripped

CBRBob
06-03-2006, 07:38 PM
If you are removing the pan, get a gasket and a new pan and drain plug with a washer, just do it, it's not that $$ and it will be 100%

AfricanBootyScratcher
06-03-2006, 07:50 PM
yeh, what bob said. better to be safe than sorry. might as well drill the bolt and safety wire while you're there anyway

bobbydigital04
06-03-2006, 11:37 PM
getting the new pan would be easiest, but if you decide to fix the old one, you dont need to take it off to helicoil it but it will be a bitch doing it upside down while laying on the ground. and if you do it with it on the bike, afterwards leave the plug out and dump a quart of oil in the filler hole while shakin the bike around a little to get all the metal shavings out

r6tony
06-03-2006, 11:50 PM
i replaced the oil pan on my f2 (that's what i get for letting a dealer do my first service, i'm so glad they decided it no longer needed a crush washer, @#%!'ers!!!). i was like $100 for the whole deal.

in all fairness, i JB Welded the thing together for two months. it just makes oil changes tough.

if you heli-coil or jb weld it, you should really drain the oil and clean everything up first. buy a new pan gasket and crush washer too.

NYCSTRIPES
06-04-2006, 11:10 AM
I say as the others, install a helicoil, best solution.
Ken

SAXON117
06-04-2006, 02:13 PM
play it safe and get the new pan, gasket, crush washer and plug. shouldn't cost that much and at least you'll know it was done right and not half assed. nothing worse then carving up a twisty road with the possibility of loosing oil on the rear wheel.:doh:



ps. unless you want to take the chance of making the next entry to "WHEN ASPHLAT COWBOYS GO DOWN LIKE CHEAP WHORES"



be safe

Cakes206
06-04-2006, 02:15 PM
play it safe and get the new pan, gasket, crush washer and plug. shouldn't cost that much and at least you'll know it was done right and not half assed. nothing worse then carving up a twisty road with the possibility of loosing oil on the rear wheel.:doh:

ps. unless you want to take the chance of making the next entry to "WHEN ASPHLAT COWBOYS GO DOWN LIKE CHEAP WHORES"

be safe

+1

akomplis
06-04-2006, 02:29 PM
If you are removing the pan, get a gasket and a new pan and drain plug with a washer, just do it, it's not that $$ and it will be 100%


+1 ....while I am not all too tech savvy, why not just take care of the problem altogether rather than patching and or getting a bypass in place.....that way your good to go and not have to visit this issue later on....of course if $$ is of concern then yeah take the appropriate steps to save you the dough...

But being that your hitting up the track, ,in the interest of safety just get it taken care of.

Soda; I am amazed on how that bike of yours keeps going...:lol:....if you were to post a pick would it be 80% duck tape and zities?

JasonB
06-04-2006, 06:03 PM
Got a temp fix for now. Will order everything i need on Monday or tuesday. Thanks all.

bobbydigital04
06-04-2006, 06:06 PM
yeeeaaaa boi!!!!!!

Cakes206
06-04-2006, 07:29 PM
Cool deal man, what happened in the first place?

akomplis
06-04-2006, 08:04 PM
good shit....will you be doing the work yourself?

JasonB
06-04-2006, 08:12 PM
Dont know what happened. I did put a washer there but it still leaked. Used some oil resistant teflon tape around the threads along with the washer. Took it out for a spin, made sure the oil got nice and hot and so far so good. But i still dont trust it.

Bobby - Yes i will do the work myself. Do it next weekend, tell the fam to leave me along. I know it will take me all day, but i can do it.

akomplis
06-04-2006, 08:18 PM
Bobby - Yes i will do the work myself. Do it next weekend, tell the fam to leave me along. I know it will take me all day, but i can do it.


Cool that will save you a pretty penny in doing so....do you have a service manual? If not get one from Soda. Hope all goes well...

JimRBlue
06-04-2006, 10:07 PM
I would replace the pan.

:2cents:

JasonB
06-04-2006, 10:46 PM
I would replace the pan.

:2cents:
welcome to 2 weeks ago....lol

Cakes206
06-05-2006, 07:16 AM
welcome to 2 weeks ago....lol
Oh snap, tell 'em Timbos :lol:

ffejtable
06-05-2006, 08:29 AM
If I can replace my oil pan, anybody can... It took maybe 2 hours because I had to remove the header pipes.

There should be some small O-rings where the oil lines connect (inside the pan).. The new pan probably wont come with these so make sure you move those over to the new pan...